While making coffee last week I looked down at my iPhone buzzing from a Google alert for the term “vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre”. It was just a normal January 22nd morning, where I clicked through to an article titled ‘Time in Reverso, and other treasures from the Jaeger-LeCoultre archive”. Expecting a broader themed profile piece on the brand, I nearly choked on my espresso as I scrolled past the headline to see a selection of important vintage JLC models. Photos of "The Shark” Deep Sea chronograph, a 1940s Triple Calendar, the funky Polaris II and a “Barracuda” Master Mariner Deep Sea were on Financial Times. While I just recently provided commentary on the esoteric subject of coin watches for the Kate Youde’s article, in no way was I expecting FT to be highlighting some of my favorite vintage timepieces - from Jaeger-LeCoultre for that matter! I read the article, and spent the morning commute to Miami desperately sifting through Google and social media for more details.

I arrived in at The Original Miami Beach Antique Show pleasantly surprised at the selection of great JLCs throughout the show. These included a Geophysic, Jaeger folding clock retailed by Hermès, a Polaris reference E 859, a Dunhill Memovox reference E 855, a Memovox reference 3151, and a friend’s familiar chronograph reference 224115. In fact, I even saw one of the Cartier Eight Day wristwatches, which if we’re being fair is very much a LeCoultre accomplishment. Despite being in the company of great timepieces, I couldn’t resist frequently jumping back on my phone for updates on ‘The Collectibles’.

To my delight, the campaign made the rounds over the forthcoming days: Forbes, Hodinkee, Robb Report, Gear Patrol, Fratello Watches, etc. For years, I’ve loved Jaeger-LeCoultre. It’s a manufacturer that takes pride in their production, design and signature timepieces. While some manufacturers suffer from the reputation of having only one model that collectors aspire to own, JLC has a rich history with leading roles from the likes of the Atmos clock, the Reverso, the Memovox, the Futurematic, the Polaris, the Deep Sea Alarm, and the list goes on.

One quote in particular stood out within Malaika Crawford’s article for HODINKEE. “Jaeger-LeCoultre is like wearing a beautiful cashmere coat with no visible label. You feel confident wearing it without having to signal or wave around your status.” To some, watches represent status. To me, JLC represents innovation and efficiency. Hard work and dedication. Tradition and understated elegance. I never sought after a Jaeger-LeCoultre with the impression of a status symbol. It was always admiration for the manufacturer’s heritage that inspired me. In The Collectibles, JLC pays tribute to the timepieces that hardcore enthusiasts adore, while introducing the broader audience to these iconic productions.

What initially began as an article detailing my thoughts on the first twelve timepieces for sale, I quickly concluded a more interesting perspective would be from those involved in the project. I reached out to Jaeger-LeCoultre in hopes of finding a more personal and behind-the-scenes side of the initiative where I spoke with two of the manufacturer’s ambassadors: Product & Heritage Director Matthieu Sauret and Senior Product & Heritage Manager Laurent Kervyn de Meerendré. During our video conference, we discussed the origin of The Collectibles, its main objective, some of their personal favorite timepieces, and the forthcoming publication.

Beginning with the book, I was thrilled to hear there was much more beyond the landing pages within the brand’s forthcoming publication detailing the 17 timepieces. To many, the news of Jaeger-LeCoultre offering vintage wristwatches supersedes a physical book. Although, as a fan of vintage-watch literature, this is big news. Of the many watch books, JLC is certainly one of the manufacturers that deserves an exhaustive tome dedicated to past models. It’s also quite understandable that one has not been published, as it would be a nearly impossible task to cover the wide spectrum of timepieces and calibres they’ve produced over the decades within one volume. While I have yet to read it, I’ve been told very positive remarks in correspondence with European collectors who’ve read it. Furthermore, when a brand dedicates the time and resources towards the niche audience of vintage enthusiasts, it certainly feels more like a labor of love. Sauret agreed and detailed the project’s primary goal.

“It’s a project we put our hearts and a lot of passion into. It is more of an educational endeavor than a business endeavor. It’s a great thing for those eager to learn more about Jaeger-LeCourtre’s history and to have a real collector’s book which goes in depth on various models. Even some of our most passionate collectors were pleased to learn new things about their timepieces, whether it be more general details or a specific patent for a case design. It was a long endeavor for Laurent, myself and the rest of our team at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Heritage Department to create this resource. Some brands will just write a book, but this felt like a very different project. From sourcing the timepieces, to the research process, to translation, offering the timepieces and sharing them with the world - it was a very fulfilling process which felt like more than simply publishing a book. Even though we spent long nights and weekends working on it, it never felt like work!”

In the background of Sauret’s screen I caught glimpse of the publication prominently displayed on the bookshelf (right next to a beautiful contemporary Atmos clock).

“While we’ve focused on timepieces from 1925-1974, this project achieves the storytelling of The Manufacturer’s 190 years of history, and what we will continue to do for the next 190 years”. Sauret added on. “I think it’s fair to say that high-quality vintage JLC watches are a bit under the radar, and sometimes people that have a timepiece may not know how great or important it is. I hope this book will help people understand and appreciate these watches.” We each had a bit of a laugh as Sauret sadly proclaimed “It may also make our personal hunting a bit more difficult moving forward.”

The Reverso is one of those models which undoubtedly invites people into the brand, and it’s only right that one was included in the program. This example has a very interesting and beautiful dark brown dial which is signed “Jaeger” only. When I inquired which models were most bittersweet to see sold, Sauret referenced this Reverso. “Even though it was not [a piece] unique, it is possibly the only one like this today, and especially in this condition. It is very difficult to find early examples like this with matching numbers and very good dials. From a historical perspective this is a very important watch.” He then clarified it wasn't bittersweet seeing the watch leave the manufacturer, but instead satisfying. “We love to see these watches worn. I would hate for it to sit in a safe not being enjoyed. In a way, it’s like a part of our Museum is traveling. We’re very lucky to work in an industry where we can make someone so happy with a piece of history that they can wear and share with other passionate collectors.”

Entranced with 3, 6, 9, 12 Arabic-numeral dials, I have to admit my obsession with the JLC Triple Calendar starts here (though the calibre 494 is certainly nothing to turn your nose up to). A highly legible complicated timepiece with the subsidiary seconds designed around the moonphase? [Cue in the necessary “watchmaker’s watchmaker” sentence here.] I love these watches, and even if you have a larger wrist, these cases wear great due to the long “tear drop” lugs. More often I see “complete calendars” come up for sale. These differ from a Triple Calendar in that they do not possess a moonphase like the above example. There are also time only examples with similar cases, like a Hermés example which belonged to Georges Simenon, yet each are quite difficult to find in their own right. Minor details like pyramid-hour markers and the hand painted moonphase are wonderful touches in these watches. The dial on this example is not what we’d call “pristine”, but it is perfect with natural blemishes. I’m very happy to see watches with imperfections being embraced. As the advertisement below states “ORIGINALITY adds to the charm.”

The three of us discussed collecting models such as this complicated timepiece from the 1940s. “Getting your hands on vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre is never very easy if you’re looking for something in not only good condition, but also with integrity. There are so many watches that we’ve created over the years, and yet it is never an easy task for the connoisseur to find a very nice vintage JLC.” Sauret highlighted the sourcing process sharing “The watches we’ve curated are both hard to find. Some examples come from collectors who have been dedicated to hunting the brand for years and these remained in their collections for some time. This provenance is a nice detail, and I imagine the new owners will also want to hold onto them for years to come.”

Having spent years searching for the right JLC timepiece for myself, I’d often come up short or disappointed. The process isn't easily articulated, yet anyone with an obsession can certainly relate to this experience. Kervyn de Meerendré’s succinct and honest response when summarizing the acquisition process of these timepieces was a compelling moment in which I realized he was the perfect person tasked with the responsibility. “The sourcing process was intense, it was long, but it was all done with the collectors in mind.”

A major highlight in The Collectibles are the several aquatic sports watches, in particular the Memovox Polaris II reference E 870. With a very large tonneau case, the Polaris II can be a bit of an isolating model to some. However, the funky colors within this watch line arguably make for the most flamboyant timepieces in the manufacturer’s catalog. Between this example and the “Cranberry” Polaris II, we see JLC dipping their toes into the loud colors ubiquitous in 1960s/1970s sports watches. Topping it off, the box, cardboard exterior and papers accompanying the timepiece make for an awesome trophy on your bookshelf next to the forthcoming publication!

I’m a huge fan of Ervin Piquerez. As I wrote last year, the renowned case manufacturer Ervin Piquerez’s reputation, albeit earned later than the Rolex Oyster, is closely associated with their impermeable bayonet case designs. A renaissance man of his era, Piquerez would file 200 patents and register 8,000 designs over the course of his career. Just about every manufacturer would commission EPSA throughout 50s-70s to compete with the offerings from Rolex. Incredibly, one of the greatest case manufacturer would achieve this with a staff of only 160 employees by the early 1970s. Whether Breitling Cosmonautes, the Vulcain Nautical Cricket, Heuer’s Carrera and Monaco, or Enicar’s Sherpa Graph and Ultradive, Ervin Piquerez is integrally involved in many highly-coveted vintage sports watches.

The Master Mariner Deep Sea reference E 558. or as collectors refer to it the “Barracuda”, is no exception to this legendary line up of sports watches. The watch is paired on a “Tropic” strap, which would have been the style it was originally sold on (as well as NSA Bracelets for European markets and JB Champion bracelets in the U.S.). It also will come with a complementary “new black calfskin leather strap”, but I think it looks great on the tropic. These watches wear very bold and if you appreciate cases it’s certainly a nice angular one with wide surfaces to keep on your radar. This is one of my favorites on the wrist and is yet another joyful addition the brand’s dual-crowned collection.

The stealthiest timepiece in the curation is most certainly the concealed or “secret” Duoplan wristwatch. The watch is powered by the microscopic calibre 403. This watch embodies Haute Joaillerie, and although more of a novelty timepiece, I would include this amongst my favorites of the curation. Seeing these miniaturized movements from LeCoultre in the metal is an eye opening experience and easily could be overlooked amongst louder or more masculine watches in the portfolio. Kervyn de Meerendré called attention to this important timepiece. “I didn’t expect to feel so fond of it at first. As soon as you put it on it’s like a second skin. Obviously, I was familiar with the Duoplan calibres but when I saw this watch, I said “Wow. This is really special.” When you handle certain timepieces, and interact with them - in this case with the hidden dial - you become amazed at how brilliant they are.”

Sauret expanded upon the overall reception amongst both seasoned JLC aficionados and those with a newfound appreciation for the Maison. “The research serves to highlight Jaeger-LeCoultre’s longstanding watchmaking pedigree and the online content has stirred up a lot of excitement. We’ve had the chance to spend quality time with collectors - both very focused on Jaeger-LeCoultre and focused on other brands. The reception and enthusiasm has been great to witness.”

One such collector I spoke with was Andrea Casalegno (@iamcasa). The Milan-based content creator made it a point to highlight his appreciation in being invited to the collector’s event despite being somewhat of an outsider. “Being invited to the collector’s event out of the blue was very nice. Although I’ve been in contact with them in the past, I don’t even own a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch. I genuinely loved being recognized by them as a collector instead of a press person. In my opinion, it’s more formative to be amongst collectors than amongst the press. Collectors really know a lot and can teach you a great deal.” The invitation had a lasting impact on Casalegno, stating the groups’ openness has made him eager to find one for himself. “Of course, now I’m in the quest for a JLC! You see so much and hear from such passionate people, it becomes contagious!”

Video credit: @iamcasa

Included in the capsule was a pair of elegant, yet rugged steel watches: The Geophysic reference E 168 and the Geomatic reference E 399. These are two fantastic sized models, the Geophysic at 35mm and the Geomatic at 36mm. Both watches speak to the “professional” client from the era, an individual who needed a high-quality antimagnetic timepiece in their work environment. While many brands focused on antimagnetic watches with the more rugged designs (OMEGA’s Railmaster, IWC’s Ingenieur or the Rolex Milgauss), JLC maintained a more classic design, even within their automatic Geomatic version.

Another individual I spoke to in attendance for the event was super collector Roni Madhvani. With a strong affinity for Cartier, Patek and Audemars, Madhvani has also been a LeCoultre watch lover for quite some time. Primarily dabbling in the Reversos, Geophysics, and anything he can get his hands on with an imaginative case or Art-Deco design.

Madhvani’s sentiment on the brand’s approach is one that many share. Individuals such as Laurent Kervyn de Meerendré and Matthieu Sauret have certainly elevated the brand in my correspondence. While most associate brand ambassadors with the likes of celebrities or Hollywood actors and actresses, the Heritage Department’s behind-the-scenes involvement and openness to the collecting community is a special thing to experience. Speaking with both, I could sense the genuine appreciation they had for these timepieces as not simply products, but rather artifacts.

Included throughout the product pages on each Collectible are advertisements, catalog photos, patents and other primary source material. While these may be seen simply as a digital component of the campaign, it felt like a bonus round for the collecting community. We all know one or two obsessed individuals who spend a bit too much time searching the internet, and posting on watch forums about every infinitesimal detail of their watch. While these might be overlooked by most, it was a moment of exhilaration for those who had yet to see certain scans.

Continuing with the EPSA case is one of the most highly coveted references from the manufacturer, the Polaris. These are massive watches for the period and are very favored amongst collectors. It also features a milestone movement, the calibre 825, which marked the first automatic-alarm watch with a calendar function and is frequently found in the dress Memovox models. The center crown operates the internal rotating bezel for gauging dive times, while the others individually control the alarm and time. One thing that is quite charming on these dials is the fact that the luminous hours markers numerals are so pronounced, and yet the manufacturer’s signature is diminutive in comparison.

Casalegno’s evening at the event was his first experience with a vintage Polaris. “At first I thought the Polaris was a watch simply adapted to modern taste. Seeing the vintage [reference E 859], I found the contemporary models to be quite faithful to the original.” The deep dive into Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history left Casalegno excited about the brand’s Nautilus which preceded Patek Philippe’s model, the importance of the U.S. market, and the Quartermaster. “The “lapis” Memovox was breathtaking. It was just amazing and I have to be honest, I’ve never wanted an alarm watch before now.”

Being amongst so many historic timepieces, I was excited when Kervyn de Meerendré highlighted his first encounter with a full-set Shark. “The reference E 2643 was a standout. Obviously we’re all familiar with it being that it’s the “Shark”. It was very cool for me because it was my first time seeing a complete set with all three bezels delivered together with the velvet green inlay for each.”

The Shark is certainly one of the most iconic chronographs in JLC’s archives. It is very large for its era and has a great look when paired with the “World Time” bezel. It’s powered by the legendary Valjoux 72, making it a bit of an anomaly amongst the in-house movements. This example was destined for the American market. Years back, I would have been less partial to the “LeCoultre” script, but these days I find it to be such an awesome underlined font. As for the green box, this is just one more thing to get excited over.

If I could’ve locked in one of the watches within the curation, it would probably be a Memovox. The reference E 856 included is just a stellar watch with the rare “parking” dial. I love the manual-wind Memovox models and particularly in this shape. Between the dagger hour markers, the case, the condition, this is a brilliant watch overall to own. Interestingly, on the parking complication patents Roger Lebet is cited for his work and is also cited in other inventions with JLC. Certainly another great clue given by the brand which I’m sure I’ll have to dig into.

“Of course I also love the Memovox” Kervyn de Meerendré expanded on his personal favorites. “It doesn’t take much to make a “Parking” Memovox. It’s simply the central rotating disc with this miniature blue P. That is the beauty in these timepieces. The small details can be so special. With the E 856, I love the quirkiness and how slim it is due to the manual-wind [calibre] 814.”

Having personally owned four reference E 855 Memovox (and its older brother E 853s), the E 855 is among the most accessible references to enter the world of vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre. However, I should clarify this by stating it oftentimes it is poor condition reference E 855s which are up for grabs at any point in time on the vintage market. As for finding a nice example, be prepared to walk aimlessly in the desert for a bit of time alongside fellow obsessed individuals. In my opinion, the below watch is one of the coolest within the curation. Here’s why: The highly acclaimed alarm-watch reference is a staple in most Jaeger-LeCoultre collections. It’s a great watch for just about anyone.

When you finally find that exceptional condition E 855, just begin to imagine how hard it is to find the above “Lapis” dial. To put it simply, the JLC collectors who have these aren’t waiting for great offers. They’re just not interested in parting with them! Quite frankly, JLC deserves a tip of the hat for including this example with the lacquered dial resembling lapis lazuli. It’s one of the rarest dial variants, and the only time I have seen one in person was circa 2017-2018 in the Bond Street boutique (my recollection is that it was part of the museum collection and not for sale). I know vintage collectors (seasoned ones who have been at it for years) who are actively hunting for this variant. It is something that just doesn’t show up enough and the fact JLC themselves offered this maven’s Memovox is a pretty big flex. Cherry on top: Box and papers.

As the three of us continued with our favorite timepieces, Kervyn de Meerendré shared my enthusiasm for the 856’s younger sibling. “Obviously, there’s also the “Lapis” Memovox. I especially love this one we offered as part of The Collectibles. You usually see them with more monochrome dials - the outer and interior discs having the same shade of blue. In the present example, it is very interesting with the contrasting range of blues.” I told Kervyn de Meerendré how much I loved this reference, and doubted whether I could ever relinquish an example with this dial variant. “We know a few collectors with these, and I imagine they would also have a hard time parting with them!”

Going back to Kervyn de Meerendré’s candid response, “The sourcing process was intense, it was long, but it was all done with the collectors in mind.” This answer very much resonated with me. The truth is, collectors-grade examples from JLC appear on the market so infrequently. Yes, there are good ones every so often, but comparatively I’ve seen countless vintage watches from other brands in ideal condition. Building a collection around JLC is much more difficult than people may realize. Maybe 1 out of 100 vintage examples I come across online or in person are in a state which I’d love to personally own it. As for exceptional condition vintage JLC, it requires an indescribable degree of patience. Within ‘The Collectibles’, I’d be elated to own any of the 17 timepieces, and that is a big part of the beauty behind the project.

Despite being centered on scholarship, heritage - and not selling watches - the initial round of 12 sold swiftly, and at very strong prices. As for Sauret’s comment that our personal hunting may become “a bit more difficult moving forward”, I’m somewhat optimistic that as a result of the campaign more examples will come up for offer (perhaps with a bit more competition). As someone with a deep appreciation for JLC’s catalog, the strong prices within the capsule don’t necessarily incentivize me to part any of my timepieces just yet - I’m a bit too attached. However, I felt a kindred outlook with Kervyn de Meerendré, and Sauret over our strong admiration for these vintage timepieces. If a collector has just one great vintage JLC, that in itself a very special thing. Hopefully this project will enlighten and ignite a passionate in more watch enthusiasts for the rich heritage of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

A very special thank you to Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laurent Kervyn de Meerendré, Matthieu Sauret, Andrea Persson, and The Heritage Department. Special thanks to Andrea Casalegno (@iamcasa) and Roni Madhvani (@roni_m_29) for sharing their experience in Le Sentier with fellow collectors. A truly special thanks to all Jaeger-LeCoultre collectors that have assisted along the way! All images courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre.com, unless specified.

To learn more about The Collectibles, visit https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/news/watchmaking/the-collectibles

To find the forthcoming publication ‘The Collectibles’ visit MR PORTER: https://www.mrporter.com/en-ch/mens/product/jaeger-lecoultre/lifestyle/art-fashion-photography/the-collectibles-2023-mr-porter-edition-hardcover-book/1647597307367740