Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Reference E 853 in 18k Gold

by Charlie Dunne

Calibre 815

“Having developed its first automatic movement in 1946, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the world’s first automatic alarm movement, Calibre 815, a decade later – the self-winding function adding to the practicality of the alarm. In a manually wound movement, the mainspring is hand-wound by turning the crown. In an automatic movement, the spring is wound by the movement of a winding rotor, an oscillating weight that swings as the wearer moves his or her wrist. The oscillating weight of Calibre 815 is fixed at the centre of the movement, its swings limited by two bumpers, equipped with tiny shock-absorbing springs.”

https://heritagegallery.jaeger-lecoultre.com/en/collections/memovox/memovox_auto_1956

The Dial

The dial on this example feature radium which would be the material used in luminous Memovox models from the 1950s. The internal rotating disc features a non-luminous painted triangle which serves to set the alarm. The fixed external disc features painted minute demarcations and radium at each 5 minute intervals. The hour markers are applied and are very pronounced. At 6 o’clock, the dial features the printed text “SWISS MADE” At 12 o’clock, the minimal font includes only the branding and “AUTOMATIC” text which in later models would gravitate to the lower dial. Noticeably, the applied “JL” logo is not present in the reference E 853 dials, nor is the “Memovox” print. The luminous-dauphine hands have not lost material, and have not affected the appearance of the internal dial. Upon close inspection, you can see the exterior dials vertical brushing which is seen on many of the Jaeger-LeCoultre dials from the 1950s.

Comparing the Memovox reference E 855 to the later Memovox reference E 875, there are many elements of the watch which would remain integral for the JLC catalog over the years.

When looking at the profile of the watch, one can see the similarities in the lugs, with slightly less curve on the earlier generation of Memovox models. This gives off a more elongated look from an arial view or on wrist the wrist. The watch would become bolder in minor ways over the years, however the dimensions

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The reference 853 case has a slightly higher angled bezel section when compared to the later E 855 case.

The Case

The case is unpolished, which to those who appreciate the true structure of a watch is highly important. The profile is horizontally brushed with a mirror finish on the surface of the lugs and bezel. At the bottom right lug, there is a slight chip in the corner where the lug descends. The crowns are signed with the “JL” branding, and the one positioned at 2 o’clock can be seen to have a slight chipped off section of the raised “L”. A crown could hypothetically be sourced to replace it, or one could even seek out laser welding to a small amount of steel to the corner of the lug. These slight imperfections can be a concern for some at first glance, however as I mentioned in the past regarding the LeCoultre Chronograph Reference 224115:

“Vintage watch collecting requires an appreciation for the natural appearance and craftsmanship of these watches, as they will never be made (or recreated) as wonderfully. These details should be embraced rather than cruelly subjected to restoration.”

Calibre 825

Dial

The dial is most likely created by Fabrique de Cadran Stern Frères featuring the same applied numerals in models like the Movado Saint Christopher Reference 24911 coin watch. The “LeCoultre” branding is displayed in a cartouche above vertical grooved layers from a straight lines of a hand engine-turned guilloche. The sixty minute markers are drilled into the white track.

Marketing Material

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Japanese Jaeger-LeCoultre catalog circa 1972 featuring a clous de Paris alarm clock reference 11016, a gold-plated “Travalarm” reference 11007 Memovox reference E 855 with thick hour markers. Image credit: nakahiro.parfait.ne.jp