Sotheby's London: My Five Favorite Vintage Watches Coming Up At Auction
By Charlie Dunne
While at the Original Miami Beach Antique Show I ran into Sotheby's’ SVP, Senior Specialist, and Head of Online Sales Richard Lopez. As we caught up, he informed me of a cool timepiece coming up for sale through his colleagues in London. I’ll admit, I’m often guilty of paying less attention to the auctions outside of the US and this one had slipped past me. “You missed it? Look at my most recent post, Charlie.” Lopez pulled up his iPhone showing a wristshot of a Patek Philippe chronograph stating it belonged to Major-General Thomas North. “You’re absolutely right, Rich. I’ll take a gander at what’s going on over on the other side of the pond”. With only a few days till the sale, I took some time over the weekend and narrowed in on five gold timepieces being sold on February 8th.
1) Rolex “Linen Dial” Day-Date Reference 18038
Rather than beginning with “The General”, we’ll kick things off with the First Lieutenant. Does a linen-dial Day-Date work for this analogy? I wouldn't know. I cleaned up my behavior when my father threatened to send me to boot camp around the time I was fourteen.
At first glance, the case appears to be quite attractive with slight oxidation on the surfaces. It looks strong, perhaps lightly polished some time years back. The bezel is slightly less crisp, but this is typical in yellow gold vintage Rolex models. The condition report mentions “Some denting to the bottom and top left lugs and sides of the case”, which is good to see. I’d take a small case ding all day over an auction house buffing it out as a “courtesy” to bidders. Also worth mentioning, kudos to Sotheby’s for not making me jump through hoops just to access the condition report, and shame on the other guys.
I’ve been falling for “Linen” dials over the past year, my personal preference are the pale-dial Datejusts. The yellow variant on Day-Date adds subtle touch of class to the iconic wristwatch, and I could certainly find myself test driving this one. Perhaps some of this appeal in this champagne example can be attributed to the maker. These linen dials - with the Roman numeral outer track - were made by Beyeler (the same dial maker responsible for the Oyster Perpetual reference 1018 dials). Around 2000, Rolex would fully acquire the company. However, other linen dials in champagne and silver appear to be produced by Fabrique de Cadran Stern Frères.
Note: The dial photos are for context and are not associated with the above timepiece. Image source: Ebay.
2) Van Cleef & Arpels Wristwatch by Movado
I know it may be a bit isolating to some, but I can’t help it. I love the vintage ladies’ dress watches and have ever since reading John Reardon’s ‘Patek Philippe in America Ladies' Reference Guide’. Less practical for everyday life, and far less legible than a 36mm Day-Date, this Van Cleef & Arpels is a super elegant timepiece. The watch is a dainty little thing at 14mm, but it is a statement piece for those drawn to design. The diamond-set bracelet has a nature-like aesthetic resembling leaves.
Only so many watch enthusiasts in my network seem to appreciate these timepieces. Maybe it’s too niche. However, one person that came to mind immediately who appreciates these tiny timepieces was Brynn Wallner, founder of DIMEPIECE. An admirer of the designer watches, contemporary timepieces, as well as “haute joaillerie”, I reached out for her thoughts on this very chic Van Cleef.
“It's always cool to see a piece like this because it illuminates a time in horological history when collaboration was frequent and creativity knew few bounds. Today, we might hear the names "Van Cleef & Arpels" and "Movado" and imagine no connection... But brands like these used to (very publicly) work together in harmony to create beautiful pieces with reliable mechanical movements. If this chunky, jewelry-forward watch were made today, she'd likely run on a quartz movement.” - Brynn Wallner
If you’re a bit intimidated by the prices in your local VCA, this one is no reserve and currently sits at $2,450. It has some well-deserved competition at 23 bids and I’m quite happy to see it. It’s just a tragedy that these are often melted for gold value.
Learn More below:
3) Cartier London Baignoire with Bracelet
Immediately upon seeing the Cartier Baignoire, I recalled a Tank Cintrée posted by Auro Montanari (which also dates to 1969). The provenance detailed in the lot essay is fascinating.“The present watch comes to us direct from the original owner who purchased it from "Mr Brown" at Cartier New Bond Street whilst working on a film in London. The watch was worn on the owners wrist whilst working as an assistant director on a colossal number of films which have gone down in cinematic history, these include: The Eagle has landed, The Spy Who Loved Me, Flash Gordon, The Shinning, Barry Lyndon, Highlander, Interview With A Vampire, Mission Impossible, Pearl Harbour, Harry Potter and the Bourne Ultimatum.”
Image credit: @javierarenaswatches
Admiring online, I decided to reach out to Sotheby’s London Watch Specialist Tom Heap (@tom_heap__), and see if he had a few minutes to chat with me in the 11th hour. He immediately responded and we hopped on a WhatsApp call between his client meetings. When I brought up the British Cartier we connected in that it was also one of his favorites in the sale.
“The Baignoire is such an amazing timepiece. I first saw it about a year back. The consigner is such a cool person and has been in the film industry for a long period. He would stop in at Sotheby’s occasionally. Beyond watches, I’m a bit of a film buff, so it was quite fun to chat with him about both the watch and movies. He was the Second Unit Director of Lawrence of Arabia, he worked with Spielberg, so those who appreciate the story of an original owner would find all of these anecdotes fantastic.
I believe it was in 1969 when he bought the watch from Cartier London. At the time, he had been chatting with the manager of the boutique informing him of his career in the film industry. The manager responded that the Baignore he was interested in was one of only 3 they had received - the other two also being purchased by gentlemen who were in the film industry as well. One was the actor, Lawrence Harvey. The other was Joseph Losey. He would go on to wear this watch on set. In the late 60s, these watches super popular. It eventually find its home off the wrist and sitting in the watch box for a few years. He went on to work on The Shining, Barry Lyndon and you have to just love that this watch was in the same room as Stanley Kubrick and perhaps Jack Nicholson. It has certainly seen some things!”
Cartier London Cintreé on similar bracelet. Image credit: Franco Cologneis The Tank (early editions).
Cartier London Cintreé on similar bracelet circa 1969. Image credit: @goldberger
Lawrence Harvey with his Cartier Baignoire. Credit: Nick Gould (@niccoloy)
American director Joseph Losey with his Cartier Baignoire. Credit: Nick Gould (@niccoloy)
Heap would expand on the timepiece’s beauty and design.
“Thankfully when you examine the watch, the bracelet has not been welded on by a third party but rather it’s integrated by the pin. The bracelet was created specifically for this Baignoire. It has the correct London case stamps for the period, its stamped J.C. (Jacques Cartier) and it has matching case numbers through the clasp, band and case back. The bracelet is also quite nice in that it is not overflexed. The gold has begun to oxidize, giving it very beautiful and warm tones in the bracelet. Just a very great historical piece with integrity. If you even want, it can be taken off and paired on a leather strap.”
The dial appears to be in original condition with minor marks on the outer sections. There is slight blemishing near the interior, a scratch a 9 o’clock, but these are signs of the Cartier’s coherency and are faithfully indicated in the condition report. As a lover of old timepieces, I’m happy to see these “imperfections” embraced by auction houses instead of concealed through photoshop. I firmly believe this is also the sentiment among the majority of vintage collectors. Imperfections are cool and should be embraced.
A more subtle and “Cartier-esque” touch is the painted “Watchmaker’s four” numeral, which I love to see in vintage examples. The case measures 31.5mm x 23.5 mm and features the signature beaded-Cabochon crown. “Although the case size is smaller, I think these watches have the potential to pick up more traction amongst collectors. I wear a Tank Louis daily which is a similar case size.” A true Cartier enthusiast, Heap would ask if I had seen the Peter Jackson documentary on The Beatles. “I was watching it with my girlfriend and noticed a couple of Baignoire models. I continually would point and yell “PAUSE IT!” and proceeded to take photos of the screen. I love that comes from this same period The Beatles were purchasing from Cartier London. Being able to offer these historical London pieces is very exciting. When I look at the watch on my desk, I just think about it being sold only 200 yards down the road. It’s very fitting.”
While writing about these delicate timepieces, I FaceTimed my favorite young Italian watch dealer, Alessandro Fanciulli (@mr.a) of Avocado Vintage Watches. It was 2 in the morning, yet he was wide awake as we each traded tales latest watch scores. Thinking back to when Mr. A narrated to a group of us about his search for a soulmate in the Mediterranean, I envisioned this as the timepiece he would eagerly to give to a young Greek lady instead of a wedding ring (if the bracelet was too short for his wrist that is).
“It’s a live reptilian-like creature on the wrist, tastefully slithering you back to an era of refinement and pure unadultered aesthetic pleasure. Please take a moment to really appreciate how the bracelet merges into the clasp, ever so delicately, ever so seamlessly. A true goldsmithing work of art. And just how f****** cool are the english hallmarks ? Can we talk about how beautiful these stamps are.” - Alessandro Fanciulli
4) Vacheron & Constantin Reference 6032 Presented to the Prime Minister of Great Britain Harold Macmillan
Originally aiming for four timepieces, I added a last minute fifth for the love of the game. The watch, a Vacheron & Constantin reference 6032. It turns out that Vacheron & Constantin gave eight world leaders their own personalized reference 6032 - the one above being presented to Prime Minister Harold Macmillan. The auction house in fact sold another example belonging to Sir Anthony Eden in 2019. According to Sotheby’s these watches were given in tribute to the leaders for their efforts to maintaining peace.
The Vacheron & Constantin reference 6032 is a bit of a rare reference in itself. I only did I come up with a handful of results when searching for the reference. However, I recognized the model fro Franco Cologni’s Assouline publication (the very small book with only around 50 pages). Within it there was an example which was President Eisenhower’s watch shown alongside examples given at “The Big Four” Geneva Summit of 1955. The other three watches were given to Vyacheslav Molotov, French Prime Minister Edgar Faure and Sir Anthony Eden. The Hour Lounge also posted a better image of these watches below alongside French Prime Minister Antoine Pinay’s model.
Image credit: @thehourlounge
French Prime Minister Edgar Faure’s Vacheron & Constantin ref. 6032. Image credit: Antiquorum
British Prime Minister Harold Macmillan with US President John F. Kennedy, in Key West, March 1961. Image credit: bridgemanimages.com
While the dial does have imperfections, it is unrestored. There is tarnishing on the hands and hour markers. Yet it is still a very cool timepiece overall and I’d prefer it in the present state. The case appears strong and has good form. The case back is personalized: 'HOMMAGE DE CITOYENS DE GENEVE - A SON EXCELLENCE HAROLD MACMILLAN MINISTRE DES AFFAIRES ETRANGERES DE SAN MAJESTE BRITANIQUE - CONFERENCE DE GENEVE JUILLET 1955 (TRIBUTE BY CITIZENS OF GENEVA - TO HIS EXCELLENCY HAROLD MACMILLAN MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS OF SAN MAJESTE BRITANIA - GENEVA CONFERENCE JULY 1955)'. As of now, the watch does not have any bids and the low estimate is 8,000 GBP. One would presume a timepiece like this is an ideal purchase for the VC Museum collection. I think there is potential for it from a discerning collector, so we shall see.
5) Major-General Thomas North’s Patek Philippe reference 533
Earning the nickname “The General” it’s easy to say Major-General Thomas North’s Patek Philippe reference 533 chronograph in yellow gold is the commander within of the Fine Watches auction. In the event you’ve missed Gemma Champ’s write up on Sotheby’s website, ‘The Story of Major-General Thomas North's Incredibly Rare Patek Philippe’, it is worth taking a look over (after you finish this article of course!). North’s military career began soon after immigrating to the US and serving in the Battle of the Somme. He would rise the ranks over the years and was given the watch by the Brazilian Army’s Chief of Staff in 1939. It was worn by North in WWII while he served as Brigadier General and in the Cold War as Major General. He received two Army Distinguished Service Medals in each conflict (the first in 1945 and second in 1968). Additionally, Sotheby’s highlights North as the recipient of the Purple Heart.
Initially confused at the presence of an American General’s Patek being auctioned over in allied territories, I learned Major-General Thomas North was in fact born in London. The story of this watch is quite epic and honestly should be getting a lot more attention within watch media. Maybe the outlets are more focused on branded content than actual stories, but I digress.
Credit: @tom_heap__
“It’s not often you see a sector dial Patek Philippe ref.533, this is the 7th known of about 12 produced.
@sothebyswatches is proud to offer an iconic, rare and historically important Patek Philippe Chronograph, which was worn on the wrist of Major General Thomas North during his service in the Second World War. In addition, the watch is being offered by the family of the original owner as part of the London Fine Watches online sale, closing on Wednesday the 8th of February.
In 1939 North took part in a ‘Good Will’ tour to Brazil, followed by a tour of the US. Captain Thomas North and his detachment escorted the Brazilian Chief of Staff (General Pedro Aurelio de Góis Monteiro) and General George C. Marshall, around the country, after which North was gifted the present watch by General Góis Monteiro.
Reference 533 was produced from 1937 to 1957 and was very similar to Reference 130 aside from its flat coin-like bezel. Patek Philippe only produced around 350 examples of Reference 533 across three metals – 215 pink, 125 yellow and 10 steel– with the rarer gold case unusually being yellow gold. The cases were produced by the Geneva case maker Emile Vichet and the dials were made by Stern Frères. The addition of a sector dial places the watch in a much smaller category of rarity as it is believed that only 12 sector dial 533’s were produced and only 6 of them have returned to market.
North was a veteran of the battle of the Somme in the First World War as part of the 11th Engineers and a General of Artillery during the Second World War. Given the unique and heavily documented provenance of the piece and the level to which the dial is preserved, the present watch is without doubt one of the most interesting examples to ever come to market.“
In the aforementioned article, Heap stated “'It's been worn, it's been enjoyed, it's clearly had a polish or two here and there, but it's been kept in nice condition,' he says. 'I suppose at that point, during the Second World War, he was in his 50s, so he wasn't storming beaches and that kind of thing.” I followed up with him on this excerpt and asked for him to expand upon the watch:
“Of course it would have been brilliant to uncover it in “new old stock condition”. Sometimes when those watches come up a little bit too perfect it can raise some eyebrows. With this watch, yes, it’s been polished, but at the same time it has been through a World War. I’m glad it is in the condition that it is given its history. When you’re holding the watch it makes you consider where it has been, and what it has bore witness to.”
Image credit: @sothebyswatches
“When you’re holding the watch it makes you consider where it has been, what it has bore witness to.””
Having been around the block with watches and working in the industry for years, Heap has handled countless timepieces. Yet, I was curious whether being able to offer “The General” felt like a big achievement in his career, or if it was just another day in the life of working with fantastic watches.
“It’s one of those watches that you can’t help being overwhelmed by. I’ve been able to come across some great watches at Sotheby’s. At the beginning of last year, with a bit of luck and hard work, we were able to consign a white gold Day-Date with a rainbow set bezel. We managed to break the world record for highest sold Rolex Day-Date in that auction. There was also an absolutely lovely “Lemon Paul Newman” we sold back in September which was one of about eleven known to the market. I think in terms of those watches that you become a bit more attached to, yes, the reference 533 is super exciting. By no means are these the types of watches you expect to come across each season, or even every year. I’m very lucky to have spent a bit of time with it!”
Like with my last-minute interview, Heap was on point and secured the Patek Philippe just at the deadline to finalize the February 8th auction.
“The watch comes through the family. I received a call one day, it was a great conversation and I requested photos of the watch. I received one photo of the side of it. All I could see was the pushers and the crown” Heap said with a laugh. “It could be a 130, it could be a 1518! I guess some of the other photos got lost in the initial email. Soon after I saw the sector dial and knew we had something very exciting.
She was a lovely lady, and it was a great memory when she met us with the watch at Sotheby’s. At this point, we were very much in the late stages, just a couple of weeks before finalizing the sale. She had pulled out all of these headshots of Major-General Thomas North with the backside stamped “Pentagon Department of Defense”. It was just a fantastic moment which culminated in her providing an Extract from The Archives! In no way would we have been able to order an Extract in time. Not even if I had run into the Patek offices pleading with several bottles of champagne.”
The estimate is conservative at 30,000 - 50,000 GBP. At the time of writing this, the watch currently sits at 42,000 GBP ($50,628). While that is high, it is still somewhat “humble” when we are considering vintage Patek Philippe collecting. This seems relatively low considering the watch is quite special beyond the more obvious provenance of ownership.
“It has been on such a journey. Obviously, made in Switzerland, it came through a French distributor, went through South America, then went into the United States, back to Europe for the war, back to America, and then through the family back to London. I don't know where it is going next, but it’s just incredible to think about”.
Image credit: @a.one.to.watch
Image credit: @a.one.to.watch
Despite being a chronograph most Patek Philippe enthusiasts may be familiar with, I was quite surprised to learn the reference 533 is a bit rarer than I previously recalled. Produced sparingly over the course of two decades (1937- to circa 1957), the lot essay states “Patek Philippe only produced around 350 examples of Reference 533 across three metals – 215 pink, 125 yellow and 10 steel”. Even more surprising is the anomaly of a much higher percentage in pink gold case production. Presumably the South American market was a strong area of interest for the 533 based on pink cases, as well as prominent retailer dials. The auction house also indicates that “The General” is among only 6 other sector dial reference 533 examples have come to the public market over the years.
The case was produced by Emile Vichet (a master case maker based in Genève known for producing references such as the 130 and 1518 in gold, reference 600 and 2499 to name a few). The watch is powered by the iconic caliber 13-130. Among other notable 533 beyond the South American double-signed examples are two yellow-gold examples in the Patek Philippe Museum collection.
Looking at the chronograph hand, it appears the counter balance is not present. Perhaps it is a replacement hand, but I am more inclined to believe it has potentially snapped. Evaluating the case, the watch is on the smaller size, but consistent with the era at 33.5mm in diameter. It has been polished, but looks appropriate for a watch approaching 90 years. I would personally prefer to see the case in the present condition than fully restored like many complicated Patek wristwatches coming up lately at auction. I agree with Heap’s previous quote it in Sotheby’s article "Honestly, if I had the choice between a Patek with a story like this, or one in an amazing, never-sold condition, found in the back room at Patek Philippe - I'd absolutely go for this one"
Image credit: @sothebyswatches
While this Patek Philippe is not projected to be the top performing vintage timepiece, I’ll make the early prediction this will be among the most interesting vintage timepieces sold at auction for 2023. Closing the conversation with Heap, I inquired which dream watch he hopes to one day publicly sell. “It would have to be Sean Connery’s Submariner reference 6538! That’s the dream watch for sure!”
Find out more below:
https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/fine-watches-10?locale=en
See the full listings at Sotheby’s London Fine Watches coming up for sale on February 8th below:
https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/fine-watches-10?locale=en
Acknowledgements: Special thanks to Tom Heap of Sotheby’s London for taking the time to discuss the forthcoming sale, in addition to Richard Lopez of Sotheby’s. Special thanks to Alessandro Fanciulli and Brynn Wallner for joining the discussion on the vintage Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Additional praise to Nick Gould for locating the fascinating photographs of Joseph Losey and Laurence Harvey each wearing their Cartier Baignoires.