Vintage Omega Seamaster Reference 2802-8 SC
By Charlie Dunne
Few vintage models are as inviting to collect as the Omega Seamaster. With seemingly endless options, and unrivaled value for the price point, one can find a fantastic timepiece without going broke. Obviously one should exercise a bit of caution before pulling the trigger, but in the $1,000-$2,500 range, it is difficult to find better timepieces which offer the brand cachet and quality.
The Dial
The dial features radium lume plots on the exterior of each hour marker. The luminous dauphine hands remain beautifully in original condition, with a slight amount lost over its +60 year life. While gorgeous character has developed on the hands and dial furniture, the dial remains almost blemish free with the minor exception between 9 and 10 o’clock.
The white dial is highly legible with an applied Omega logo placed prominently in the center below the lapidated 12 o’clock dauphine hour marker. While this model features all dauphine hour markers, there are dial variants with an Arabic 12 numeral. The painted seconds demarcations surround the exterior of the dial.
The Movement
The watch is powered by the calibre 471, an automatic movement with a 360 degree bidirectional rotor. The 471 was used within a wide variety of Seamasters throughout the mid to late 50s. These “perpetual” automatic movements were used right as the Seamaster models began to transition from bumper movements.
It is a highly reliable calibre, in addition to being beautifully designed. Most people’s reaction upon seeing it for the first time will confuse the brass as a “rose gold”. However, this doesn’t detract from the fact Omega was creating some of the best watches at the time. While it certainly does not contend with the likes of Patek Philippe’s calibre 12'''-600, it has ultimately stood the test of time and remains a great movement +60 years after the fact..
Omega Calibre 471 parts. Image credit: Old Swiss Watches
My inclination was to say this Seamaster was from the late 1950s based on its style. However by using the WATCH 101 section of the recently released My Watch Memoir app, I was able to narrow in on the production date. Scrolling through the Dating Tables section of Omega serial number dates the watch to circa 1958.
In addition to Omega, the dating table includes brands such as Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Hamilton, IWC, Longines , Patek Philippe, Universal Geneve, Rolex and more.
The Case & Bracelet
The case measures in at 33.5mm in diameter (roughly 37mm lug-to-lug). The lug width is 18mm, adding another value proposition based on the ability to change straps frequently. Due to the raised snap on caseback, it has a slightly robust feel. When worn on a bracelet, such as this period correct beads of rice example, the watch wears very flush to the wrist due to the downturned lugs.
The case has possibly seen a polish at some point. However, it appears to have been done lightly, maintaining the true structure of the watch. The watch features its original signed Seamaster crown which is well proportioned to engage with.
Style
While I prefer to wear this Seamaster on the beads of rice bracelet, it looks equally great on leather. Because of the fact the dial has such a clean look, you could put the strap on a stiff exotic leather strap to dress it up. Or you could pair it with a more casual option for everyday wear.
One of my favorite options is an orange Molequin from their Taurillon Nubuck Collection. It has a soft velvety feel, despite appearing to resemble a tougher suede look. The highlight however is its flair which emphasizes the warmth of the dial.
Another great option is the green Wind Vintage strap made by Nick Gabarro. Like the previous “autumn” strap, this is a great choice to wear in the 3rd quarter of the year. It complements the light patina developed on the hands. A bit more thick and stiff, it makes the watch feel a bit more rugged.
The safest play is the supple taupe Veblenist in brown. It is a classic look that could be worn on almost all occasions. The white stitching is a perfect accent to the dial. It is very light and comfortable, and I feel it is worth emphasizing when you notice a strap maker doing great work.
